Coral fragging is one of the most rewarding skills reef aquarium hobbyists can learn. Whether your goal is to expand your coral collection, share frags with fellow reef keepers, or eventually start a small coral farming operation, understanding proper fragging techniques improves survival rates while minimizing stress on your corals.

If you've never fragged a coral before, making that first cut can feel intimidating. The good news is that most beginner-friendly corals are far more resilient than many new reef keepers expect. With clean tools, stable water conditions, and a basic understanding of coral growth, fragging quickly becomes less about confidence and more about consistency.

Although every successful frag begins with a clean cut, coral propagation involves much more than simply separating a colony. Choosing a healthy parent coral, using the appropriate tools, mounting the frag securely, and providing stable conditions during recovery all play an important role in long-term success.

This guide walks through the entire coral fragging process, from understanding coral growth patterns and selecting the right tools to mounting new frags, promoting fast healing, and avoiding common beginner mistakes.

How to Frag Coral

Coral fragging is the process of intentionally separating healthy tissue from a parent colony so it can heal, attach, and develop into a new colony. Most corals are fragged using clean cutting tools before being mounted to a frag plug with reef-safe cyanoacrylate gel. Successful fragging depends on healthy parent colonies, clean cuts, stable water parameters, and proper healing conditions.

What Is Coral Fragging?

A coral frag, short for coral fragment, is a small piece of a healthy coral colony that has been intentionally separated so it can grow into a new colony. Reef hobbyists, coral farmers, and commercial aquaculture facilities use fragging to propagate corals, preserve desirable genetics, trade rare varieties, and reduce collection pressure on natural reefs.

Many corals naturally reproduce through budding, fragmentation, division, or by releasing detached polyps that settle and continue growing elsewhere. Successful coral fragging simply works with these natural growth patterns by creating healthy fragments that recover, encrust, and develop into thriving new colonies under stable aquarium conditions.

Why Reef Hobbyists Frag Corals

Reef hobbyists frag corals for many different reasons. Some propagate corals to expand their own collections, while others trade or sell frags to fellow hobbyists and local fish stores. Fragging also allows reef keepers to preserve the genetics of desirable colonies, prevent fast-growing corals from overtaking an aquarium, and rescue healthy tissue from colonies that have become damaged or diseased.

Coral farming has become an important part of sustainable reefkeeping. By propagating corals in captivity, hobbyists and commercial growers can supply healthy aquarium corals while reducing demand for specimens collected from wild reefs.

Understanding Coral Growth Before You Frag

At Artisan Frag Plugs, we believe successful coral propagation begins with understanding coral biology. Every coral grows differently, and understanding those natural growth patterns is one of the most valuable skills a reef hobbyist can develop. Different coral groups reproduce through branching, budding, division, encrusting growth, or natural fragmentation, and each growth form responds best to a slightly different fragging technique.

Learning how your coral naturally grows helps determine the safest place to make a cut, the best tools to use, how to mount the frag, and how quickly it is likely to recover. By working with each species' natural growth habit instead of against it, you can reduce stress, improve healing, and dramatically increase long-term frag survival.

How to Frag Soft Corals

Soft corals are among the easiest corals for beginners to frag because they lack a rigid calcium carbonate skeleton. Instead of cutting through hard skeleton, propagation simply involves separating living tissue using a clean razor blade, scalpel, or scissors. Most soft corals naturally reproduce through budding, division, or self-fragmentation, making them highly adaptable to manual propagation.

Some soft corals, such as mushrooms, gradually divide into two identical polyps by splitting through the mouth. Others, including leather corals, reproduce by budding, where new polyps develop directly from the parent colony before growing independently. Species like Kenya Tree and Waving Hand Anthelia readily self-fragment by releasing branches or polyps that attach elsewhere in the aquarium. While this makes them exceptionally easy to propagate, it can also allow them to spread beyond their intended location.

Whenever possible, make your cut beneath the coral's attachment point where it connects to rock or a frag plug. Preserving as much of this connective tissue as possible encourages faster healing and helps the frag secure itself more quickly to its new substrate.

Zoanthids
⭐ Beginner

Zoanthids are among the most popular corals for beginning fraggers because they readily form new polyps and colonies under stable conditions. Zoanthids spread by forming a shared mat known as the coenenchyme. Fragging usually involves cutting through this connective tissue to separate small groups of healthy polyps while preserving as much of the mat as possible. Leaving several polyps attached to each frag generally improves survival and speeds recovery. Because some zoanthids and palythoas may contain palytoxin, always wear gloves and eye protection, avoid inhaling aerosols, and prevent coral mucus from contacting broken skin while fragging.

Full Guide: How to Frag Zoanthids

Leather Corals
⭐ Beginner

Leather corals, including common species like Kenya Tree, Sinularia, and Toadstools, are best fragged by removing a healthy branch or section of the cap with a clean scalpel or razor blade. Avoid cutting through the central stalk unless intentionally dividing a large colony. Because leather corals produce a protective mucus coating after being cut, provide moderate flow to help remove excess slime while the frag heals and reattaches.

Green Star Polyps (GSP)
⭐ Beginner

Green Star Polyps spread across a flexible purple mat known as a stolon, making them one of the simplest corals to frag. Carefully peel or cut a small section of the mat from the colony and attach it to a new frag plug or rock using reef-safe cyanoacrylate gel. Healthy frags typically begin encrusting onto their new substrate within several days under stable water conditions.

Mushroom Corals
⭐ Beginner

Mushroom corals can be fragged by cutting directly through the mouth or by carefully separating naturally dividing polyps. A sharp scalpel produces the cleanest cut while minimizing tissue damage. After fragging, place the pieces in a low-flow container or mesh cup until they naturally attach to rubble or a frag plug, as unattached mushrooms can easily float away before healing.

Full Guide: How to Frag Mushroom Coral

How to Frag Branching Corals

Branching corals naturally reproduce through fragmentation, making them some of the easiest stony corals to propagate. On natural reefs, storms and heavy wave action frequently break healthy branches, many of which survive and establish new colonies. Fragging simply mimics this natural process.

Bone cutters are ideal for most branching species, although thicker colonies may require a rotary tool or coral saw. Always make clean cuts through exposed skeleton, avoid crushing living tissue, and allow adequate spacing between new frags so they can heal without contacting one another.

Birdsnest (Seriatopora)
⭐⭐ Intermediate

Birdsnest corals have thin, brittle branches that snap easily, making them one of the simplest Small Polyp Stony (SPS) corals to frag. Carefully remove a healthy branch using bone cutters or by gently snapping it at a natural branching point. Moderate to high flow helps prevent detritus from accumulating while the frag heals and begins encrusting.

Stylophora
⭐⭐ Intermediate

Stylophora develops thicker, sturdier branches than Birdsnest while remaining relatively easy to propagate. Make clean cuts through healthy branch tips using sharp bone cutters, avoiding excessive pressure that can crush surrounding tissue. Stable alkalinity, strong random flow, and moderate to high lighting encourage rapid healing and continued branching.

Acropora
⭐⭐⭐ Advanced

Acropora are among the most commonly farmed SPS corals because they grow rapidly and fragment naturally, although they require very stable water parameters. Select a healthy branch and use bone cutters to make a clean cut between branch junctions whenever possible. Mount the frag securely with reef-safe cyanoacrylate gel and provide strong flow with stable water chemistry to encourage rapid encrustation and new branch development.

Pocillopora
⭐⭐ Intermediate

Pocillopora fragments readily and often reproduces naturally by releasing small colonies or detached branch tips. This coral is slightly more forgiving than Acropora for water stability, making it slightly easier to frag. Select a healthy branch and remove it cleanly with bone cutters before mounting it to a frag plug. Because Pocillopora can spread naturally throughout an aquarium, place new colonies where future growth can be easily managed.

How to Frag Encrusting Corals

Encrusting corals spread by extending living tissue across rock, frag plugs, and other hard surfaces while depositing new skeleton beneath them. Rather than removing branches, fragging usually involves cutting through the skeleton beneath an actively growing section of tissue. Preserving the actively growing margins of the colony encourages faster healing and continued encrustation after mounting. A diamond coral saw or rotary tool generally produces the cleanest cuts while minimizing damage to surrounding tissue.

Montipora (Encrusting)
⭐⭐ Intermediate

Encrusting Montipora are best fragged by cutting beneath an actively growing section of the colony with a coral saw or rotary tool. Preserve as much healthy tissue around the edges of the frag as possible, as these growing margins drive future encrustation. Stable water chemistry and strong turbulent flow promote rapid healing and skeletal growth.

Cyphastrea
⭐⭐ Intermediate

Cyphastrea forms dense encrusting colonies that can be divided into small sections using a diamond coral saw or rotary tool. Include several healthy polyps on each frag whenever possible to improve recovery and encourage steady outward growth after mounting.

Leptastrea
⭐⭐ Intermediate

Leptastrea is a hardy encrusting coral that tolerates fragging well when multiple polyps are included on each fragment. Use a coral saw to divide the skeleton cleanly while avoiding direct contact with the fleshy polyps. Moderate flow and stable parameters encourage rapid healing and continued expansion.

How to Frag Plating Corals

Plating corals expand by forming broad, flattened skeletal plates that naturally break during storms and heavy wave action. Fragging mimics this natural process by separating healthy sections from the colony using bone cutters, coral shears, or a diamond saw. Most plating corals recover quickly when clean fractures are made through healthy skeleton.

Montipora capricornis
⭐⭐ Intermediate

Montipora capricornis develops thin plates that can often be snapped cleanly by hand or with bone cutters. Choose a healthy section away from the actively growing edge and create a smooth break without crushing surrounding tissue. Mounted frags usually resume plating growth quickly under strong lighting and stable water chemistry.

Turbinaria
⭐⭐⭐ Advanced

Turbinaria forms thicker, more rigid plates than Montipora and often benefits from using a coral saw for cleaner cuts. Select a healthy portion of the colony while avoiding damage to the growing margins. Moderate to strong flow helps prevent debris from settling on freshly cut surfaces during healing.

How to Frag LPS Corals

Large Polyp Stony (LPS) corals generally require more careful fragging than many SPS corals because their fleshy tissue extends well beyond the underlying skeleton. Successful fragging depends on avoiding damage to living tissue while making clean cuts through exposed skeleton whenever possible.

Many reef keepers prefer to frag LPS corals after the polyps have partially retracted, reducing the likelihood of accidentally cutting or tearing delicate tissue. After fragging, provide moderate flow and stable water chemistry while the exposed skeleton heals.

Euphyllia Corals
⭐⭐⭐ Advanced

Euphyllia corals, including hammer, torch, frogspawn, and octospawn corals, are among the most popular LPS corals in reef aquariums. Most branching varieties are propagated by separating individual heads through the exposed skeleton beneath the fleshy polyps using sharp bone cutters or a coral saw. Because their tissue extends well beyond the skeleton, avoid handling or cutting through living tissue whenever possible. Stable water parameters, moderate flow, and clean cuts greatly improve recovery, while wall varieties should generally not be fragged because cutting through the continuous skeleton often results in severe tissue damage and poor survival.

Hammer Coral
⭐⭐ Intermediate

Hammer corals follow the same basic fragging principles as other branching Euphyllia. Separate individual branches below the fleshy polyps using bone cutters or a coral saw. Never cut directly through living tissue. Once mounted, provide moderate flow to gently move the polyps without exposing the freshly cut skeleton to excessive turbulence.

Torch Coral
⭐⭐⭐ Advanced

Torch corals are propagated much like hammer corals by separating healthy individual heads below the tissue line. Because torch corals can be more sensitive to stress and bacterial infection, make clean cuts through exposed skeleton while avoiding unnecessary handling of the fleshy polyps. Stable parameters and moderate flow improve recovery.

Candy Cane Coral (Caulastrea)
⭐⭐ Intermediate

Candy Cane corals form distinct branching heads connected by narrow skeletal stalks, making them among the easiest LPS corals to frag. Use bone cutters to cut through the skeleton below each individual head while avoiding the fleshy polyp above. Healthy frags generally heal quickly and continue producing new heads after attachment.

Duncan Coral
⭐⭐ Intermediate

Duncan corals naturally produce new heads that can be separated individually once enough skeleton has formed beneath each polyp. Use bone cutters to divide the skeleton cleanly between heads, leaving adequate space beneath the tissue. Duncan corals typically recover rapidly and resume feeding within several days.

Favia
⭐⭐⭐ Advanced

Favia colonies consist of tightly packed corallites that share a continuous skeleton, requiring careful planning before each cut. Use a diamond coral saw to divide the colony while avoiding cuts directly through individual polyp mouths whenever possible. Including several healthy corallites on each frag improves healing and encourages continued encrustation after mounting.

Tools Needed for Coral Fragging

Certain tools are required for almost any fragging process, regardless of technique, while others are specific to the kind of coral you are fragging.

Recommended Tools

Gloves are recommended when fragging any coral because they help control what freshly fragged polyps are exposed to and prevent harmful chemicals from reaching your skin.
Tweezers are helpful for carefully picking up fragile polyps at specific points and positioning polyps during the mounting process.
Frag plugs are essential unless you are mounting directly onto a substrate in your tank such as a dry rock. Frag plugs allow corals to be mounted to a secure surface that can be placed on a modular frack rack for growth.
A frag rack is recommended if you plan to frag multiple frags because they simplify positioning and maximize space efficiency once placed in a saltwater tank.
A temporary saltwater container is helpful for allowing separated frags to momentarily relax after the stress of fragging before mounting.
Paper towels are recommended because this process involves containers of water and the use of chemicals.
Cyanoacrylate gel or another reef-safe adhesive is essential for securely mounting coral frags to new frag plugs or substrates. Although some corals don’t technically need it, adhesive is highly recommended to ensure even small frags are securely mounted.

Situational Tools

A scalpel is required for certain kinds of corals, especially soft corals that can be easily separated with a sharp sterile blade.
Bone cutters are extremely helpful for stony corals that require cutting or snipping because they are durable and make clean cuts.
A coral saw or rotary tool with a cutting wheel is helpful for certain stony corals that are larger or have teacher skeletons to cut through.
Safety glasses are recommended when fragging corals with any kind of power tool or when fragging corals that release palytoxins.

Choosing the Right Frag Mount

Mount Types

Ceramic frag plugs are the industry standard for consistency and used by farms, propagation facilities, and hobbyists alike. Ceramic frag plugs are durable and chemically inert, making them safe for reef introduction as soon as curing is finished. Their simple surface structure can mean that initial encrustation is slow to start, but they are reliable and affordable overall.

Cement frag plugs offer increased porosity and surface texture compared to ceramic plugs at a similar price point, but present more variance as a result. Cement frag plugs are denser than ceramic frag plugs as well, which can improve their stability in some mount setups.

Aragonite frag plugs provide similar porosity compared to cement plugs while often weighing less with a more consistent shape and texture. The aragonite used to make the plugs is a naturally occurring mineral found in reefs that encourages attachment and supports the colonization of the biofilm.

Frag tiles & frag discs offer flat surfaces upon which to mount corals. These flat mounts emphasize horizontal attachment and encrustation and typically offer high surface texture on the top mounting surface.

Natural frag rock is the most organic mounting surface available and can provide a beautiful base for coral frags. The drawback for natural frag rock is the complete lack of consistency, meaning they can be difficult to use for propagation and farming setups. Natural frag rocks are most commonly used for display tanks. Magnetic frag rocks can be used for additional placement options and a natural appearance as well.

Qualities to Consider

Surface texture affects how easily the coral frag can anchor itself to the mounting surface. Even when using adhesive, porosity and texture make a difference for how secure the glue’s attachment is to the surface of the mount.

The shape of the mount affects function, aesthetics, and coral growth. Mounts with consistent, predictable shapes are often preferred in farming and propagation setups because they allow for efficient and organized space usage. Mounts with interesting or unique shapes are often preferred for display tanks. The shape of the mount also influences growth patterns of coral, with more unique shapes supporting more natural growth patterns.

Long-term encrustation relates to how well the mounting surface will support the development of the colony over time. Some substrates like aragonite-based frag plugs promote natural growth patterns and support the development of the biofilm, while others like ceramic are more focused on modularity. Mounts that support long-term encrustation are durable, stable, and provide a secure attachment surface.

Step-by-Step Coral Fragging Process

Step 1: Choose a Healthy Colony

Always frag a healthy, established coral rather than one that has recently been introduced or is showing signs of stress. Healthy corals typically display full polyp extension, consistent coloration, and active growth. Avoid fragging corals that are bleaching, receding, or recovering from recent parameter swings, as this can significantly reduce survival rates.

Step 2: Prepare Your Tools

Gather all necessary supplies before removing the coral from the aquarium. Depending on the species, you may need a scalpel, razor blade, bone cutters, coral saw, reef-safe cyanoacrylate gel, frag plugs, gloves, eye protection, paper towels, and a container of aquarium water. Having everything ready allows you to work efficiently and minimizes the amount of time the coral spends out of the water.

Step 3: Make Clean Cuts

Use the appropriate tool to make a single, clean cut whenever possible. Avoid crushing tissue or repeatedly cutting the same area, as unnecessary damage increases stress and slows healing. Whenever practical, cut through exposed skeleton or natural branch junctions rather than living tissue to promote faster recovery.

Step 4: Allow the Coral to Rest

After fragging, place the coral in a container of clean aquarium water for several minutes before mounting it. This brief resting period allows the coral to retract, release mucus, and recover from the initial stress of cutting. While not required for every species, giving freshly cut corals a few minutes to stabilize often makes handling and mounting easier.

Step 5: Mount the Frag to a Frag Plug

Dry the base of the frag and the top of the frag plug with a paper towel whenever possible to improve adhesion. Apply a small amount of thick reef-safe cyanoacrylate gel to the frag plug, not directly to the coral, then gently press the frag into the adhesive for several seconds. Use only enough glue to create a secure bond while keeping as much living tissue exposed as possible for healthy encrustation.

Step 6: Place the Frag on a Frag Rack

Position the mounted frag on a frag rack or frag rock in an area with appropriate lighting and moderate water flow for the species. Avoid placing newly fragged corals in extremely high flow, where they may become dislodged before healing. Give each frag enough space to prevent neighboring corals from stinging one another during recovery.

Step 7: Observe Healing

Monitor the frag closely over the next several days for normal signs of recovery, including polyp extension, tissue inflation, and new encrusting growth. Resist the urge to move or handle the frag unless necessary, as repeated disturbance can delay attachment. With stable water chemistry and proper placement, most healthy corals begin showing noticeable healing within the first week and continue growing over the following weeks.

Healing New Coral Frags

After fragging corals it’s important to provide the right conditions for recovery to maximize survival rates. The most important factor for any coral is the stability of conditions in which the new frags are placed. Very stable water within healthy ranges for coral growth allows the new frags to focus on recovery and heal quickly, whereas parameter swings stall this process significantly.

Coral frags that are recovering healthily tend to extend their polyps within a few days for many corals, with some sensitive corals taking longer. Healthy recovery often includes normal tissue coloration. Common signs of stress include the bleaching or discoloration of tissue, continued retraction of polyps, or mucus shedding from the frag over several days.

Although healing timelines can vary from species to species, polyp extension usually returns to normal within a day or two, while full recovery and growth usually resumes within 1-2 weeks. Many coral farmers and hobbyists move their coral frags to permanent display positions after the colony has reached 5-50 polyps depending on the coral and goals, but this is highly subjective for each reefer.

Common Coral Fragging Mistakes

Fragging unhealthy corals is one of the most common mistakes made by beginning fraggers. Although fragging unhealthy corals is a great way to save a colony if you are careful about your selection, separating healthy polyps from the colony can lead to spreading the issue that is causing stress as well.
Too much glue is an easy mistake to make for hobbyists concerned about secure attachment. One technique is to use a small bead of glue on the surface of the mount as placement target before carefully placing the base of the frag into the bead using tweezers or sliding them off of your fragging tool. This method is effective for creating an attachment without smothering the mouth of the frag, and is especially useful for small soft polyps like zoanthids.
Poor flow can cause healing frags to sit in nutrient poor water and slow recovery. Healthy flow is important during recovery because it allows the new frags to shed mucus and receive new nutrients that fuel recovery.
Too much light immediately after fragging can shock new frags that are temporarily sensitive from the process. Dimming the lights slightly after the fragging process helps new frags adjust, and is generally useful for a few days to a week.
Touching tissue is exceptionally risky during and after fragging because the frags have open wounds that can allow infection to enter very easily. It’s important to minimize contact with fresh frags to allow their wounds to heal so the colony returns to normal levels of resilience from infection and sickness.
Improper sanitation is a failure mode in fragging that is not discussed enough. Because fragging is a process that creates fresh wounds in the corals involved, practicing proper sanitation routines prior to, during, and after fragging is essential. This also means that tools used in fragging should be clean and sanitary, while cutting tools that slice coral tissue should ideally be sterile.
Poor water quality is even more detrimental during fragging when polyps are stressed and weak than it is during normal growth periods. Corals thrive on stable water parameters, so keeping the environment as consistent as possible will greatly assist recovery.
Fragging too aggressively or trying to get the absolute maximum number of frags possible is one of the most common mistakes made by early fraggers. What many people don’t realize is that each polyp contributes to the nutrient absorption of the whole colony, so frags with one polyp will encrust and grow much more slowly than frags with two polyps. Propagation systems that maximize growth focus on creating a large number of frags that can recover and grow quickly, rather than the sheer volume of frags. Aggressive fragging can also be costly because it can kill polyps that would have otherwise survived as part of a smaller colony.

Water Parameters for Newly Fragged Corals

Parameter

Recommended Range

Why It Matters

Temperature

76–79°F (24.5–26°C)

Stable temperature reduces stress and supports normal metabolism. Avoid fluctuations greater than about 1°F per day.

Salinity

1.025–1.026 SG (35 ppt)

Maintaining natural seawater salinity promotes healthy tissue repair and minimizes osmotic stress after fragging.

Alkalinity

8–9.5 dKH

Stable alkalinity supports skeletal growth and encrustation. Consistency is generally more important than the exact value.

Calcium

400–450 ppm

Calcium is required for new skeletal growth in stony corals as they heal and begin encrusting.

Magnesium

1250–1400 ppm

Magnesium helps maintain stable calcium and alkalinity while supporting healthy calcification.

Nitrate

2–15 ppm

Moderate nitrate levels promote tissue repair. Extremely low nutrients may slow healing, while excessive nutrients can encourage nuisance algae.

PAR

75–300+ PAR (species dependent)

Match lighting to the coral being fragged. Soft corals generally recover well under lower PAR, while many SPS corals heal best under higher light. Avoid sudden increases after fragging.

Phosphate

0.03–0.10 ppm

Low but measurable phosphate supports coral metabolism without excessively fueling algae growth.

Water Flow

Moderate to Strong (species dependent)

Good flow delivers oxygen and nutrients while removing mucus, waste, and detritus from freshly cut tissue. Avoid blasting new frags with direct flow.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can all corals be fragged?

Most corals can be fragged successfully, but the techniques vary depending on their growth pattern. Soft corals are generally the easiest because they lack a hard skeleton, while branching SPS corals are naturally adapted to fragmentation. Some LPS and encrusting corals require specialized tools like bone cutters or a diamond coral saw to minimize tissue damage. Always frag healthy, established colonies rather than newly introduced or stressed corals.

How long does coral take to heal?

Most corals begin healing within a few days, but complete recovery can take anywhere from one to four weeks depending on the species. Fast-growing soft corals may attach to a frag plug within several days, while slower-growing SPS and LPS corals often require several weeks before they fully encrust and resume normal growth. Stable water chemistry, adequate flow, and consistent lighting are the biggest factors affecting recovery.

When can I move a frag?

Avoid moving a newly mounted frag until it has securely attached to its frag plug or substrate whenever possible. Corals attached with cyanoacrylate gel can usually be repositioned immediately by moving the plug itself, but freshly cut soft corals should remain undisturbed until they naturally attach. Most reef keepers wait one to two weeks before relocating recently fragged corals unless water flow or lighting adjustments are necessary.

Do corals feel pain?

Current scientific evidence suggests corals do not feel pain the way humans and other animals with centralized nervous systems do. Corals lack a brain and nervous system, but they do respond to physical damage by retracting their polyps, producing mucus, and activating healing processes. These responses are protective biological reactions rather than evidence of conscious pain perception.

Can beginners frag coral?

Absolutely. Many corals are excellent choices for first-time fraggers, including zoanthids, mushroom corals, Kenya Tree, Green Star Polyps, Candy Cane corals, and Duncan corals. Starting with hardy, fast-growing species allows beginners to build confidence before attempting more delicate corals like torch corals or Acropora.

What glue should I use?

The best adhesive for most coral fragging is a thick reef-safe cyanoacrylate gel, often sold as coral glue or super glue gel. The thicker consistency helps hold corals in place while curing underwater and works well for attaching SPS, LPS, and many soft corals to frag plugs. Some soft corals, such as mushrooms and Kenya Trees, may attach more reliably when temporarily secured with mesh or a specimen cup rather than glue alone. For larger colonies or structural repairs, reef-safe two-part epoxy can also be used, either alone or together with cyanoacrylate gel for additional strength.

What is the best frag plug for coral propagation?

The best frag plugs for coral growth provide a stable mounting surface while encouraging fast coral encrustation. Many reef hobbyists prefer aragonite frag plugs because they closely resemble natural reef rock, offer a textured surface for attachment, and blend more naturally into reef aquariums than smooth ceramic alternatives. Choosing the right plug helps newly fragged corals establish quickly and makes the transition from frag tank to display tank easier.

Bringing It All Together

Coral fragging is a skill that improves with every healthy colony you propagate. Every successful frag teaches you something about coral biology, recovery, and long-term reef husbandry. Start with hardy species, work patiently, and focus on consistency rather than speed. Before long, the techniques that once felt intimidating will become second nature.

The process of fragging coral has great depth once you really start to explore, but it doesn’t have to be unapproachable if you remember the most important tenets before you begin. Corals thrive on stability, no matter what they’re doing. Whether they are sitting in your display tank or in a temporary tank recovering from fresh separation, aim for stable parameters whenever possible.

Coral fragging is also more successful if you work with the corals’ natural growth patterns, so use techniques that are designed to minimize stress for the growth patterns of your coral and separate polyps at natural divisions between polyps and skeletal structures.

The most important thing before fragging any coral is preparation. Make sure both you and your tools are prepared, and be ready to invest the time required to complete the process so you don’t extend the duration of stress to the coral. Choosing a healthy parent colony, having a basic game plan for how you will use all of your tools, and thinking about where you plan to make cuts or divisions will make the process much more successful and sustainable long-term.

Choosing the Right Coral for Your First Frag

If you're fragging coral for the first time, start with fast-growing species that naturally tolerate propagation well. Zoanthids, mushroom corals, Kenya Trees, Green Star Polyps, Duncan corals, and Candy Cane corals are all excellent beginner choices because they recover quickly and require relatively simple techniques. Below is a chart based on our experience with various corals. This chart is not comprehensive, and everyone is subject to their own opinions.

Coral Coral Type Best Tool Difficulty

Mushroom Soft Coral Scalpel ⭐☆☆☆☆

Leather Corals Branching Soft Coral Scalpel ⭐☆☆☆☆

Kenya Tree Branching Soft Coral Scalpel ⭐☆☆☆☆

Green Star Polyps (GSP) Encrusting Soft Coral Scalpel ⭐☆☆☆☆

Zoanthids Mat-Forming Soft Coral Scalpel ⭐⭐☆☆☆

Pulsing Xenia Branching Soft Coral Scalpel ⭐⭐☆☆☆

Duncan Coral Branching LPS Scalpel ⭐⭐☆☆☆

Candy Cane (Caulastrea) Branching LPS Scalpel ⭐⭐☆☆☆

Birdsnest (Seriatopora) Branching SPS Scalpel ⭐⭐☆☆☆

Pocillopora Branching SPS Scalpel ⭐⭐☆☆☆

Stylophora Branching SPS Scalpel ⭐⭐⭐☆☆

Acropora Branching SPS Scalpel ⭐⭐⭐☆☆

Montipora capricornis Plating SPS Scalpel ⭐⭐⭐☆☆

Montipora (Encrusting) Encrusting SPS Scalpel ⭐⭐⭐☆☆

Cyphastrea Encrusting SPS Scalpel ⭐⭐⭐☆☆

Leptastrea Encrusting SPS Scalpel ⭐⭐⭐☆☆

Euphyllia (General) Branching LPS Scalpel ⭐⭐⭐☆☆

Hammer Coral Branching LPS Scalpel ⭐⭐⭐☆☆

Torch Coral Branching LPS Scalpel ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆

Turbinaria Plating LPS Scalpel ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆

Favia Massive LPS Scalpel ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆

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Coral Fragging

How to Frag Coral: A Beginner's Guide to Coral Fragging

Table of Contents

Coral Fragging: The Basics